What
follows was inevitable. Since (a) Knight Hospitaller is one of my favourite Infinity
PanO sculpts with the Palbots in close pursuit and (b) i like all things tiny,
you can guess what happened.
I had begun
with only the photos of the original knight a reference and got hold of the actual mini later on.
Thus there are some mistakes in this work, that i couldn’t force myself to fix.
The
Palbot’s legs are spread a bit wider than the Knight’s, so i had to bring them
closer. I chose to bend the back leg forward, to get that hunched
pose. Having cut out the middle bit of the bar i started to
bend the leg at the hip gently, taking care not to twist it off. Bending the leg
brought the toes up, so bending the leg at ankle to rest it fully on the ground and twisting the foot outwards a bit were necessary, so that the pose was more
convincing from a fencer’s point of view.
The initial
idea was that the bot wore a tunic much on the large side,
dragging it behind him, and wielded a wooden toy sword. I liked that idea, but
realised that a great mass of creased fabric would utterly swamp the tiny
model, so i limited myself to copying the Knight’s garment and replaced the
waster with a proper blade.
Gluing the
model together would have made sculpting the tabard difficult, so i started with
filling the gap between the legs with a piece of putty (also to strengthen the hip that got half
twisted off earlier). Tried to shape it like fabric straight away, but gave up in the end: can’t sculpt a damn thing without a rigid
understructure.
When the
initial piece hardened i added some Milliput and used a scalper and a toothpick
to create the folds and creases, but i only managed to shape the part between
the hips and knees finally. The nether part had too much putty there, and i
couldn’t achieve satisfyingly sharp edges. Another layer of Milliput, and yet
another of plumber’s epoxy putty were used to bring the tunic to the desired
look.
Next it was
time to do the top part. I went for a seriously plunging neckline, so that the
tabard looked like stolen from a big brother after all. It was also there to
left the breastplate showing, as i still wanted the model to be something more
than a heap of fabric.
In general i tried to leave the underlying sculpture showing through. This was impossible below the ribs though, as there is nothing else
than the spine down there.
The belt!
What’s a knight without a belt, i daresay? Cutting a thin strip of putty, i
wrapped it around the Palbot’s waist and made holes with a needle. Then i cut
another strip and placed it so that it imitated that signature loosely hanging
end. On top of that came another short strip to form the piece of the belt just
behind the buckle, and the only things missing were the bottom metal bit and the buckle, which was made by placing a tiny rectangular piece of putty in the
desired place and poking it with a needle&toothpick set, until it looked
roughly like it should.
The tabard
ready, i kicked off with the head. Needed to prepare a pair of holes to house
the antennae, like the ones the Knight has sticking from his helmet. I chose a
spot between the fore and back plate, pressed a little hole there and drilled
it lightly with a 1mm and then a 2mm bit. The head was then superglued to
the torso.
I drilled a
hole in the right fist, to make room for the blade, and another in the
rerebrace. Then another in the small cavity, where the arm was supposed to go.
Then (after drilling: easier to deepen a
hole than drill in a flat surface) i filed away the edges of the cavity and a
piece of the right shoulder pad, to allow for the raised arm. This pined, i cut
a narrow piece of plasticard, sharpened it edges with a file and test-fitted it to
the figure. It looked flimsy, so i tried making another, broader this time, but this was even worse. The solution was a
reverse-taper blade, narrow close to the grip and broader towards the point. Glued this in place and added a putty crossguard.
A bit bulky, true, but i was worried that a fancy thin one would prove to
fragile. At this point the fingers were added, as the original doesn’t actually have any on the right hand. An automatic pencil was a perfect tool here, the ferrule tip makes shaping
small ball joints real simple.
The
original mount of the right arm was no good, but did fine for the left. I bent
it in slightly at the elbow to look more like the Knight’s left.
Those mechanical
muscles were added in the armpits, to fill the gaps resulting from my unorthodox run at arms-posing and to strengthen the bond.
I planned
to add a pair of small shoulder pads, but trashed that idea and went for a
single big one. Firstly, because the small ones looked like... meh! and
secondly, to add to the feel created by the largish tunic. He was supposed to have a wannabe look.
Next in the
process were the ears, meaning the fancy PanO antennae. I cut two
teardrop-shaped pieces of thin plasticard, sanded their edged and sliced the
very tips off. The broad ends were glued in the pre-drilled holes, then i
smeared the pieces with supeglue and put putty on either side of either of
them, trying to make it look similar to the original. This would be heaps easier,
if there were any useful bits left after putting together an Infinity mini, but sadly
this is not the case. Then again, the originals would be too big anyway.
My
Knightbot was scheduled to stand on a base with a rusty crate and eroded slabs,
just like his older bro. I planned to put him on an elevated piece, because the
model is too small to look impressive on a 30mm base. Unfortunately, the only
material i had at my disposal was pink foam. This forced me to stick the model to
the base nonetheless, as the foam was too soft to provide a satisfying bond. I
did a little trick here, to avoid drilling through those little feet. The bar
leftovers made quite nice pin-things, raising the model just the distance needed. First i glued everything (save the slab to put under the mini) in the
base cavity and prepared the slab itself.
Having
test-fitted the bits to estimate, where to drill holes (in foam and plastic)
for the pin-things, i sliced the slab in two through both holes.
A conical
cavity was cut under each hole in both halves. Then I glued one of them, along
with the miniature, to the base and covered the exposed pin-things with epoxy
glue, filling up the pre-made cavities.
Then came
the missing half, with another ton of epoxy glue. The cut was showing, so i
covered the slab with acrylic construction filler. This proved maddeningly
dirty, with me getting that crap all over the mini. Thankfully it's fairly
easy to remove when dry. The piece was sanded, and cracks/holes were added.
Ready for priming.
Ready for priming.
This
project was my first attempt with the wet palette-thing, so no painting tips
here. The sole thing i can say is that an ordinary cheap washing-up liquid makes
a great glaze medium, even if you are using lower-quality paints, like Pactra, which have a tendency to dry with a distinct rim when seriously thinned. This
is due to high surface tension if i’m not mistaken; any kind of liquid soap
solves the trouble, just find yourself a colourless one, so that it doesn’t
tint your glazes.
Appendix
As usual, the ideas multiplied out of any proportion during work, so i ended up craving to make a
vignette to chase a funny thought i got somewhere in the meantime.
Still lacking any better material i cut the shapes for the main block from styro-
and the top detail from pinkfoam. Separating the bottom piece like that
resulted from me wanting a cavity to suck up the base height and better fit the
mini into the surroundings. A cardboard inset floor proved necessary, as for
some reason i was totally unable to sand the styrofoam satisfyingly flat. The
surface detail was dicatated by what was had already done with the bot’s base, i just broadened the design. You can
notice my trademark piece of base detail in extensive use here – it’s the putty
leftovers rolled flat with a corrugated-handle tool :D
Can’t
remember where i got the idea to make it non-rectangular, guess it was just one
of those queer moments. Prone to get carried away with
thoughts like that, i believe i managed to balance it out in this particular
case and not to overcomplicate the layout. The two-colour base plays a big part
here, it tricks the eye a bit to see an even shape in an odd one.
The
vertical part of the background was finished with cardboard. (This was when a stray halva wrapping came in handy. While working on this i was kinda 'between appartments' so without the usual commodities of all the leftover junk that you can get creative with.) Three layers went in to give it a bit of
depth. This was in keeping with a major terrain-building project i had
underway back then (well, frankly, still haven’t finished it). I’ve penciled in
the all-important silhouette, glued the stuff together, speed-painted it and
weathered the wall heavily.
And the
great finale – did i mention an amusing idea for the piece earlier on? Well the
thing is that the small guy had been converted to resemble another model from
the PanOceanian range, the Knight Hospitaller, so i came up with the idea that the bot casts a shadow on the wall, in the shape of the official picture the Hospitaller
blister comes with. At the last moment i got the idea to place a glowing first-aid
kit in the wall where the Hospitaller’s cruciform vision slit would be.
So where is
the joke? Well, it’s in the game rules that link these two fellas. In case you
were not much into Infinity – the game system features specialists, such as
Doctors and Engineers, who have access to specialised remote-controled units,
that carry out the work on the battlefield in their stead. This is called
Ghost: Servant in game terms and works simple – the medic declares an action,
but it’s the servant unit that performs it, while the controller can be safely
tucked somewhere, away from enemy fire. Knight Hospitaller does have a Doctor
profile in the PanO army list, and the mini used for this conversion is
actually the Palbot-Doctor Ghost: Servant unit.
Should anyone ever tell you again that wargames are for the inelaborate and unsophisticated,
send them right here :-)
Hope you
like it, thanks for reading.